check out the. Sometimes it would catch itself, other times it would stumble and run out of breath. Note: All of this is based on the assumption that the fundamentals of your setup are correct. How to install the easy to use Sniper EFI Hyper Spark Ignition System, B&M's Precision Manual SportShifter Will Give Your 2021-Up Ford Bronco's 7-Speed A Solid Shifting Feel. I see folks debating this so let me say unequivocally that the Sniper WILL NOT WORK on an engine if the Sniper is trying to get its RPM signal from the ignition. You need a new fuel pump. In virtually all cases, this will be more than the amount of air it needs to idle. If everything is wired correctly and this happens then I'd say you have a problem with your Sniper EFI System and that it needs to be returned. You need to run resistor plugs and resistor, non-solid core wires. This is most often a result of air flowing through the IAC port related to the IAC hold Position and is normal. Power glide with 1.80 first gear, 6,200 converter. Granted, car was not on but still seemed like a lot of fuel to be returning. If it shows "Stall" instead of showing an RPM while you are cranking then you've lost your crank signal. Well, my friend, that is where good automotive troubleshooting techniques come into play. Does it recover if you bump the throttle? Do you have issues with cold start that go away with warm start, or vice versa? This is called the fuel prime shot. At least not right away (after time-delay set in relay). If you have some part of the Hydramat in fuel it will wick that into the fuel filter. Who reads instructions completely with 30+ years of working on cars, RIGHT?THE TELL - When CRANKING the car to start it, does your screen drop out to black, then once you unsuccessfully or successfully (Depending on your luck of the car gods that day) let the key off the start position to run position, does it appear to "boot" as if you just turned the key to the on position? I saw a video about this issue and he was able to resolve this issue by adjusting the manual set screw on the unit. Probably 3-4 seconds, and rich after it does fire. Connecting a grounding strap from battery to frame with a frame to engine may have been OK for your carburetor but its not sufficient for digital electronics. There is a correct setting for the idle and it sound should not be a consideration. Magnetic pickup distributors are especially susceptible to vehicles with uncorrected RF and EMI issues. Here is where the denial starts. But I have MSD 6 AL. I am having a 2 572 BBC being built for my boat. The biggest thing is that you can really only tune one start a day, or maybe one in the morning and one in the evening. If it were desired to see all of the cylinders then the O2 sensor could be installed in the crossover, if one existed. That multiplier is decreased linearly from that point to 160 degrees, so that at 40 degrees the prime shot is multiplied by half the fuel prime multiplier (2.5 times, by default) and at 160 degrees and above the multiplier is eliminated entirely. Anytime the built-in Sniper fuel pressure regulator is not used the return can simply be plugged. Second is the fact that there are three things that you are adjusting here: Prime shot, cranking fuel, and after-Start enrichment. Price Point: $$$. Pin 30: To Battery I want to start by saying that the engine should not require any IAC air bypass to idle. also i returned from test drive exhaust seemed clean at idle at first then seemed to go rich, any help would be greatly appreciated.Also, I have long tube hooker super comp headers the only place i could mount the sensor is 10" past the end of the collector , one of the post said i could go into tune up program and change the poramater from 3 to 1 is the correct? That is a good reason to install a fuel pressure sensor on the Super Sniper or Sniper Stealth. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. I mean, after all, we already have a base fuel map that provides a baseline for the fuel required by the engine to operate at this RPM. Unfortunately, the only way to do this is with the Sniper Software. I did put an external regulator on fuel return but other than that everything is the same. Connect the crank and run wires together and all should be good. Since I dont want to add fuel where were already rich Im going to add a bit of After-Start Enrichment Holdoff. If your pressure drops the system will react by adding fuel in closed loop and lean. I've gone through all the steps and cannot seem to solve the problem. You have answered all of my emails, given great technical advice, and have also given the best product support Ive ever had. I bet this fixes your problem. to zero, but I think you'll find that you will stall. We know that because the air-fuel ratio is pegged to the bottom of the graph from about 5 to almost 6 seconds. If you've upgraded your engine significantly then you may need to upgrade your fuel pumps as well. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Nice catch, Ken! While continuing to observe the barrels, crank the engine. MSD recommends non resistor plugs. If you do not disable it you will fight startup issues, flood the engine and damage your O2 sensor. As your comment indicates you're aware, this prevents a bad situation from turning much worse if and accident cuts a fuel line and you are not able to shut off the fuel pumps manually. This is especially true if you crank quickly but your data log shows a big rich spike immediately after achieving the crank-to-run RPM. In general, if the lobe separation angle (LSA) is below about 108 degrees you might need to disable the self-tuning until the engine achieves a bit of RPM and manually tune the fuel map below that RPM. For the Sniper it is best to run resistor plugs. Capability Range: Professional Tuning the cold start uses the same exact techniques as tuning the warm start, so if you were successful there you don't have to do anything new. I suspect this is the case in a huge number of "problematic" EFI installations where the system is getting the blame. Your thoughts?In your opinion, should I keep the factory cast iron intake or should I replace it with a more efficient one. Then, click on AE vs MAP Rate of Change and change that to 15 as well. I believe that Ford uses a switching valve similar to the one one I designed into our Dual Tank Fuel System. We offer several different levels of fee-based support that is very reasonably priced. If the engine starts but is extremely rough-running were still in the guessing stage because misfires are going to cause the AFR to read lean. Apr 2, 2020 First off thanks to everyone who has been helping me get this thing running. That's a spread of 200 degrees so half of that would be 100 degrees. Thanks for the kind words. Start by increasing your TPS and MAP ROC blanking values. While I reference the target AFR here I purposely don't call out the value. That should be adequate to get the engine running. Anything else would be a big safety no-no. I plan on converting to efi this coming spring. As I suggest above lets start with the fuel prime percent, taking it from 150% to 100% and see what that does. What do I need to do to rectify this issue? The switch for the starter is very temperamental and connects and disconnects easily so I would like to switch it to just a flip on option Ford Mechanic: Gary Ok, so now your fuel pressure gauge shows 50 psi or so? Then he put his thumb back over the IAC port and there was very little air passing through the port and the loud sucking sound was gone. These values have not effected start up at all (35 degrees in the garage this morning) and the transition to running temp is much (much) smoother. Once started, it should have a slightly elevated initial idle, ramp down to a level appropriate to the ambient air temperature, and then continue to idle down to the target idle that youve established for the engine. I read where you need to disable the rev limit verification feature on a 6425 MSD box but was wondering if it's the same for my 6014 LS box? It is likely that the main power and ground leads are not long enough. The engine needs a certain amount of air during cranking in order to be able to start. What is important is that you understand what happens at this point. Can I lower it for this purpose? Thanks Chris, keep up the good work. Good luck! Is this normal? Activate Advanced Tables2. Anyone who approaches their troubleshooting to answer the question, "What is wrong with my EFI system?" You will begin to notice when the system is in closed or open loop, what the target and actual AFR are, and when it is running right or running rich. Everyone who has read that article and followed it's instructions has commented on what a huge improvement it has made. Seems like thats what its doing. Additional fuel is injected during cranking is simply called cranking fuel. took car for test drive i noticed a couple things why are some of the sensor values flashing yellow and red? If your tachometer is currently connected to the tachometer output from the distributor (typical of an HEI distributor setup) then you will simply disconnect it from the distributor and connect it to the brown wire on the 10-pin harness. Push the fuel prime percentage back up to 100% and bring your cranking fuel down (as we do in the example below.). That means at or above 55 PSI it is capable of flowing ZERO fuel. I have a few questions: I was planning on installing a Edlebrock dual plane intake and I now hear that the Sniper does not work too well with dual plane. Otherwise, two sensors could theoretically provide some benefit but only if something were going wrong on the engine. Joe. 02/23/2023. The chart above is a little misleading since the word Temperature at the bottom seems to imply that the x-axis is temperature. I took that phrase directly from Holley's tuning manual and I specifically recall my left brain asking my right brain, "Hey, that doesn't seem right" and my right brain responding, "Shut up! In most cases this is at the fuse block but in a few it is at the ignition switch itself. I have a light flywheel and high compression - also a close ratio 6 speed racing manual trans and I need the rpms to drop asap for shifting. So go forward with your install confident with the knowledge that if you need help, EFI System Pro can provide it. ), I have the sniper efi system with the holley retro-fit in tank electric fuel pump. But you can extend the leads using wires of an equal or heavier gauge. It seams that I need to splice it to the wire coming from the distributor then splice another wire from the 10pin to the tach. Try cranking immediately upon key-on--before it has a chance to prime. If not then stop and buy one now. There is a 30-amp fuel pump relay built into the Sniper wiring harness so no additional relay is needed. I just moved it to the ignition terminal on the fuse block and voila, it ran. Oxygen sensors read unburnt Oxygen not Fuel. FSM Manuals Jeep Manuals. Never use the yellow wire if you're running a CD box like an MSD 6.The 1/4-inch line should not be used as a return. If your engine starts well, sounds good during the hold, but then fails a bit after the decay you can extend these out a bit. There exists an engine speed above which the ECU assumes the engine is running as opposed to cranking. shut truck off. Most important!!! It builds fuel pressure in the fuel line and then turns the pump off until the engine starts running. I won't buy anywhere else. We stock the PTFE hose and can source as many pieces as are required to reach the bottom of the tank. The assumption that the x-axis is Temperature blanking values on AE vs Rate. 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